AHAs: INGREDIENT DEEP DIVE

 Hi, babes! Emma here, and let's talk AHAs! 

First, what are AHAs exactly?

Alpha hydroxy acids or, as you may know them - AHAs are a class of acids that are found in milk, sugar cane, and various fruits in nature. They are used as exfoliants in skin care to get rid of dead skin cells and to treat particular problems.

Second, how do they work?

AHAs act by freeing the top layer of ageing skin cells by dissolving the binding material holding skin cells together. As a result, the skin produces more new cells and turns over more cells.

We’ll be discussing glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid today, which are the most commonly used AHAs in skin care today, but not the only ones. 

GLYCOLIC ACID

One of the superstar elements for skincare that is considered to be " an oldie but goldie" is glycolic acid. Although it has been used in dermatology for more than three decades, it is by no means the newest or trendiest substance available. Instead, dermatologists choose it for its extensive list of scientifically validated advantages. Surprisingly, their advantages extend beyond exfoliation.

When compared to all of the other types of acids that are available, it is on the kinder end of the spectrum, which makes it a suitable choice for just about everybody. Although it has the smallest molecular weight of any alpha-hydroxy acid, it is one of the strongest and most effective AHAs in terms of its ability to permeate the skin. In other words, it is less mild overall but more efficient than other typical AHAs like lactic acid or malic acid.

The Benefits™

By dissolving the bonds holding together dead skin cells, glycolic acid causes them to slough off. Desquamation is the name of the game if you want to get super technical about it.

Additionally, it works well for treating acne. Glycolic acid reduces the development of clogged pores—the primary factor causing acne—by promoting the shedding or peeling of skin's surface cells and those lining the pores.

Furthermore, it stimulates the production of collagen deep within the skin. The effects of glycolic acid go beyond the skin's surface. It's also been demonstrated to encourage collagen production in the skin's deeper layers, which is why it's regarded as a good anti-aging component.

However, experts assert that, in contrast to its exfoliating effects, the youth-enhancing advantages develop over time with prolonged use. To put it another way, while you'll notice smoother, more even skin almost immediately, it will take time to observe a difference in lines and wrinkles.

The Side Effects™

An acid is an acid, and that's that. And if your skin is already sensitive, there is a chance that you will experience some redness, irritation, and peeling. People who are prone to eczema or have a dry complexion are particularly vulnerable.

Following the instructions for the specific product you're using is always the best course of action because not all glycolic acid products are created equally. Although many combine it with other acids that have been particularly prepared to not irritate, some rely only on glycolic acid. It's also important to keep in mind that, even if a product lists the percentage of glycolic acid it contains (the majority of over-the-counter choices have less than 1%), this number doesn't necessarily reflect how potent or effective it will be.

Choose products with fewer ingredients if you wish to err on the side of caution, but keep in mind that it's ideal to use glycolic acid gradually and increase the frequency as your skin adjusts. It's also a good idea to save applications for your nightly routine because it could make your skin more sensitive.

Product recommendations

The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, can’t go wrong with this one! It’s affordable, effective and has many uses other than for the face. Another great choice is Collistar Anti-Dark Spot Concentrate Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide, a lightweight emulsion designed to create a balanced, even skin tone.

LACTIC ACID

Would you believe someone if they just said that rubbing soured milk on your skin would remove blemishes and reduce fine lines? On the surface, it appears to be some kind of Pinterest hack, but the science backs it up. When Cleopatra took a milk bath to have softer, smoother skin in Ancient Egypt, she unwittingly benefited from lactic acid, an exfoliating agent contained in sour milk.

Obviously, I'm not advocating that you splash sour milk on your face every night; it would be absurd and extremely unpleasant. Instead, lactic acid has been isolated by cosmetic companies and added to serums and cleansers for the advantage of consumers.

A bit of history for you, before we begin: The molecule was first isolated from sour milk by Swedish chemist Carl Wilhelm Scheele, and in the late 1800s, and German pharmacist Boehringer Ingelheim discovered how to mass-produce lactic acid after realising it was a byproduct of bacteria-fermented sugar and starch in sour milk.

The Benefits™

According to my extensive Google search, research on the skin-related benefits of lactic acid was scarce in the early to mid-1900s, but a 1985 study discovered that lactic acid was effective in treating skin infections in newborn babies. It follows that it would have the same effect on adults, even the aggravating sort that causes acne.

Researchers in 1996 found that a larger concentration permeated both the dermis and epidermis (12 percent could only reach the epidermis) for firmer, thicker skin, resulting in fewer fine lines and wrinkles, when other concentrations (5 percent and 12 percent) were tested.

Also, it has been shown to lessen acne lesions. Therefore, it is a bit of a hero ingredient, if that makes sense.

Other benefits include helping the skin hold moisture and increasing cell turnover, which is a given with exfoliating acids. 

If you're wondering how it varies from other acids, like, say, glycolic acid, the reason is that because the lactic acid molecule is larger, it can't penetrate as deeply; instead, you're receiving more surface treatment (polishing, firming, exfoliating goodness).

However, those with sensitive skin will likely be able to handle its effects better, so this is excellent news for them. The good news is that lactic acid is less likely to irritate skin and alter the pH of your skin barrier than glycolic or salicylic acid, which isn't simply helpful for those with sensitive skin.

The Side Effects™

Use it carefully, as you would with any acid. Avoid applying to skin that is inflamed. Utilising an acid in excess might cause inflammation, which hastens the ageing process. Overuse can potentially result in irritation or, worse, rashes and chemical burns. The fact that lactic acid actually causes less skin irritation than many other acids means that it can be applied more frequently than substances like (the highly potent) salicylic acid.

If you frequently use lactic—or any—acid, you might want to stop using treatments that exfoliate strongly, including retinoids or scrubs. As it causes the growth of new skin, which might not contain any pigment, it could make people more susceptible to being sunburned. So, sunscreen is frequently included in the formulation. Apply an SPF of at least 30 every day (as you should be, anyhow! ), as shedding skin layers make you more vulnerable to UV damage.

Product recommendations

Kate Somerville Goat Milk Moisturising Cleanser, an excellent cleanser that’s totally worth every penny, and The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA 2%, a very affordable serum that’s easy to incorporate in your night time routine. 

MANDELIC ACID

We use peels whenever our skin seems drab and clogged and needs substantial overall renewal. In order to treat skin conditions like acne and hyperpigmentation, they remove the top, most superficial layer of skin and encourage the formation of younger, healthier skin. Even while it might seem like I've covered all the essential information concerning peels, there is one in particular that has gotten little attention. Mandelic acid, welcome - it’s your time to shine.

It's a different form of an ingredient we've grown to know and enjoy for our skin, not some brand-new, top-secret ingredient we've never heard of. Mandelic acid, an AHA, is derived from almonds. 

The unique molecular structure of mandelic acid is what makes it so special. It has a larger molecular weight than glycolic acid, another type of AHA we talked about above, and since it penetrates the skin more slowly, it might be kinder to it.

The Benefits™

Mandelic acid is a chemical exfoliator, like all AHAs, which means that rather than exfoliating with abrasive scrubs, it eliminates layers of older skin cells by interacting with the skin. This in turn means that it promotes skin cell turnover. 

Skin that has been exfoliated seems brighter, and mandelic acid goes one step further by strengthening the skin so that it maintains its brightness over time. And because of its exfoliating qualities and increased cell turnover, mandelic acid lessens the appearance of dark spots and sun damage.

A mandelic acid peel will likely provide the same skin benefits as a regular one, such as cell turnover to firm the skin. This specific one works really well to minimise pores and brighten the skin. This is a fantastic option for cleaning skin debris and smoothing the complexion because acneic skin can get impacted and blocked. Mandelic acid has also demonstrated some benefits for skin brightness, therefore it can support a routine to remove photodamage.

The best option for you may be a mandelic peel if your skin is extremely sensitive.

The Side Effects™

Mandelic acid has the ability to irritate your skin, just like any other AHA. The potential is really low, though, in contrast to almost every other AHA. Patch testing is always a good idea with new products.

Just like with any ordinary peel, wait at least three to five days before using retinol. Otherwise, most other products can presumably be used safely with mandelic acid. Avoid the sun because it will make your skin more susceptible to sunburn.

Product recommendations

You can’t go wrong with The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% serum, but also be sure to give 

By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Prep Water a try as well. 

So there you go babes, my AHA deep dive. Thanks for sticking through to the very end and I hope you find it beneficial. 

Until next time. 

Love, 

Emma 

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