PEPTIDES: INGREDIENT DEEP DIVE

Hi, babes! Emma here, and today we'll be talking about something relatively new on the market - peptides! 

We frequently hear about peptides, but what benefit do they genuinely provide to the skin? And are they actually worthwhile to include in your skincare routine? Here, I'm sharing some insider knowledge to help you comprehend the trendy element and how it functions in an efficient regimen.

So... What are they? 

The function and appearance of the skin depend on peptides, which are short chains of the amino acids that make up proteins like collagen, elastin, and keratin (which are responsible for texture, tone, elasticity, and firmness). The body spontaneously produces hundreds of distinct peptides, each of which is created from a unique combination of amino acids.

And how can you benefit from them? 

Peptides function as messengers to the skin when administered topically, encouraging it to enter a regeneration state. In order to give the skin a firm, plump, and smooth appearance, they can encourage the body to produce the proteins collagen and elastin, which are crucial for maintaining the skin's structural integrity. Collagen and elastin production by the body steadily declines as we become older. Consistently applying peptides to the skin can encourage production at a higher rate than would otherwise be the case.

What are some that you can use? 

The effects of various peptide kinds on the skin vary. According to experts, they can be divided into four general groups: signal, carrier, enzyme inhibitor, and neurotransmitter. Each type within these categories affects the skin in a unique way. Numerous items also contain formulas that blend multiple peptides.

Enzyme inhibitor peptides are promoted as slowing down the degradation of collagen, whereas neurotransmitter peptides are marketed as minimising the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Signal peptides stimulate the body to produce more collagen and elastin. There is solid proof that signal and carrier peptides can, respectively, smooth out the skin's texture, give it a firmer appearance, and promote wound healing.

Pointing out that there isn't enough proof that neurotransmitter and enzyme inhibitor peptides work in practical scenarios, it is advised to look for formulations that comprise carrier and signal peptides, especially if you're new to the amazing world of peptides. That's not to suggest they don't work; it's simply that there aren't any clinical studies to support that claim yet.

The most prevalent example of a carrier peptide (which aids in wound healing) is copper, while most tetrapeptides and hexapeptides, as well as carnosine and n-acetylcarnosine, are examples of signalling peptides. To find these, look through the product's ingredient list.

Are they effective, though? 

The skin barrier can be repaired; firmness, elasticity, can be improved; roughness is smoothed out, and wrinkles are softened, according to a large body of recent research on peptides (carrier and signal). For some peptide kinds, however, the evidence isn't sufficient to demonstrate that they are all worth it.

While utilising peptides on their own carries a very minimal risk of causing irritation, it is important to be aware of the other chemicals they are mixed with because doing so can assist give skin a smoother, plumper appearance. Peptides alone are unlikely to fully solve a skin condition. A humectant like hyaluronic acid or an antioxidant like niacinamide are unlikely to irritate and are safe for all skin tones. The formulation might not be suitable for sensitive or reactive skin, though, when they're coupled with active ingredients that have a tendency to irritate the skin, such AHAs and retinoids.

They are therefore worth applying regularly as part of a more focused practice, even though you can't rely on them to help only soften fine wrinkles and plump the face.

When is it best to use them? 

If you use a peptide serum, apply it after cleansing and before moisturising. If you get your peptide fix from a moisturiser, make sure the serum you used before it (if you're using one) doesn't contain an active ingredient that could make your skin more sensitive if it's sensitive.

Any product recommendations for us? 

To give the peptides time to work on the skin, it is advised to pick leave-on treatments like serums and moisturisers rather than anything that rinses off. A formulation that combines peptides with substances that are known to be helpful for your skin condition is something I would also advise looking for after first determining your skincare needs. For instance, search for signal peptides in addition to hyaluronic acid if you want skin that looks firmer or plumper.

Here’s some products you can try: 

The Ordinary “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1%

The formula penetrates an opulent feast of goodness into skin, leaving you with a lit-from-within complexion boasting visibly improved overall health and radiance. It is enriched with a complex of age-reversing peptides and a probiotic complex, both solubilized in a base of 11 skin-friendly amino acids and multiple forms of plumping Hyaluronic Acid.

Medik8 Clarity Peptides

Three strong, active components, including 10% Niacinamide, which reduces the look of redness, blotchy skin, and blemishes, are present in the peptides. While Zinc PCA reduces the appearance of sebum production and treats the appearance of blemishes, Crystalide Peptide increases light reflection for a translucent skin effect. It's a non-cruelty alternative as well.

Drunk Elephant Protini PowerPeptide Resurf Serum

Snow mushroom is a moisture magnet loaded with antioxidants, a multi-amino acid blend to soothe and fortify, and Drunk Elephant's proprietary Signal Peptide Complex, a cocktail of 11 signal peptides and plant-derived growth factors, which boost skin's self-renewal while they work to plump and optimise skin. All of these ingredients are included in a highly concentrated formula. This firms and resurfaces the skin while softening and whitening it to leaving you looking radiant. It also prepares the skin to maximise the effects of a "Protini" (or your favourite Drunk Elephant smoothie).

Spectacle Skincare Performance Creme 

This cream functions well under the stress of all seasons and environments, making it a true desert-island formula (as in, if you could only bring one formula with you to a desolate desert island, this would be it). This cream will feel cosy and keep your skin looking healthy whether it's summer or winter, a sweaty workout or a dull day at the office. It delivers a distinctive gel-cream texture that flawlessly preps makeup and lays nicely beneath SPF. It was tested in the New Mexico deserts and on the streets of London. The solution, which uses skin-identical components, strengthens the skin's protective barrier, brightens, and shields against environmental stress while also encouraging the development of collagen and elastin. If you can only use one skin due to some nightmare circumstance, let it be this one. 

So there you have it, babes, my deep dive on peptides! I hope this helped to clear away some confusion about these lovely products. Stay tuned, and until next time. 

Love, 

Emma 

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