Hi, babes! Emma here, and today we'll be discussing something different, something delicate - clean beauty.
All of us want to safeguard our health, yet there is no consensus or agreed-upon definition of what "clean beauty" actually entails. The terms "green," "natural," "organic," and "non-toxic" are frequently used interchangeably. A lot of the information we are given about ingredients is actually successful greenwashing, or marketing strategies that use those unregulated phrases to sow anxiety, according to formulation experts and new brands.
Consequently, the aforementioned buzz words are unregulated. While scientific research, supplier data, safety data, and toxicological testing are all used to rigorously analyse cosmetic compounds for general safety and concentration, it has become normal practice to cherry-pick studies and remove them from their original context.
In short, saying certain things are nice and others are terrible without providing any context for your judgments is a disservice to the consumer. It's important to get specific about each component or practise within context in order to adequately discuss the concept of "clean." In the end, this is what makes the Clean Beauty movement so meaningful to all of us and why it's critical to demand increased accountability, safety standards, and sustainability.
Beauty brands are consequently compelled due to this cherry-picking to define "clean" according to their own standards. No less confusing is the formulator's side of the clean beauty industry - the trend aims to promote healthier and more environmentally friendly products, but the lack of nuance may hinder that. The use of natural products imposes a greater environmental strain. It's really disheartening because, despite the beauty industry's best efforts, marketing frequently keeps us from developing along with science.
These antiquated strategies no longer work since consumers are better informed than ever. In order to make informed judgments based on their own values and views, consumers want to be better informed and equipped. The current generation of consumers wants companies to be honest above all else.
The term "synthetic" needs to stop being stigmatised.
We have been told that natural and organic products are healthier for the environment and us than synthetic ones ever since the eco-friendly beauty movement first gained traction. But we're discovering that's not always the case as we learn more about the effects our cosmetic decisions have on the environment. In certain cases, the options that come from a lab are the most environmentally friendly ones.
It’s important to note that synthetic does not have to be harmful. Synthetic compounds may occasionally be more dependable, sustainable, and environmentally beneficial. In a similar vein, customers have been misled into thinking that "organic" and "sustainable" are mutually exclusive. A decent harvest of organic vegetables requires a lot more water and resources. In the end, brands and formulators concur that brand transparency and consumer education are the best ways to prevent murky marketing strategies.
Science has been working nonstop recently to try and come up with new ways to improve and replace those problematic natural substances that cause more harm than good, such palm oil, vanilla, flower extracts, and more, whether they be synthetic molecules or green chemistry alternatives.
Ingredients created in a lab are to be avoided at all costs for many consumers who desire their products to be organic and green. It is believed that the less an element is altered, the better. But it's not that easy, like I previously mentioned.
So, what are examples of detrimental practices and consequences in the beauty industry?
Ingredient Waste
The truth is that whole plant formulation, or incorporating the complete plant in a product, is still very much a niche technique, despite the fact that the beauty industry likes to brag about all the natural and organic ingredients it employs. Typically, businesses will take a portion of the plant, such as the root, seed, or fruit, and use that in their formulae while discarding the remainder.
Some businesses are exploring how to use an upcycling technique to transform that garbage into desirable materials. This entails taking a waste stream from one process and applying green chemistry to it in order to produce a molecule with high value. An example of this is using apple oil from the pulp waste left over after making juice; it's one of the first fruit oils to actually contain an aroma component. After the oil is removed, the waste from that process is frequently transported off to be turned into cattle feed, continuing the process of upcycling.
Resource Scarcity
Many of the elements that are fantastic for our beauty routines are very challenging to farm on an industrial scale since there is only a finite amount of land that can be used to cultivate plants. If we tried to use vanilla beans for everything that tasted or smelled like vanilla, the environment would suffer greatly. Vanilla is one of the most popular flavours and perfumes in the world. In order to satisfy our fascination with vanilla in everything, artificial substitutes like vanillin were created as early as the 19th century. On the more contemporary side, there is ambergris, which is whale intestinal waste that is treasured by perfumers for its potent and distinctive aroma. Additionally, it is quite expensive and scarce.
While there are synthetic and plant-based substitutes, researchers took a step further last year and developed an ambergris substitute manufactured from sugarcane, a resource that is incredibly renewable. The sweet and seductive aroma of ambergris is recreated in their version, Ambrofix, by fermenting sugarcane. Understanding enzymes, fermentation, and biotransformation has allowed them to create this extraordinarily complicated chemical.
Silicone
For the record, there is no scientific evidence to support either of the following statements. The argument over silicone has raged for decades, ranging from its potential pore-clogging effects and health dangers to the detrimental effects it may have on our water supply and animals owing to bioaccumulation (this one is unfortunately true).
A family of terpenes generated from pine trees was found to have some potential as a clean, biodegradable replacement for silicones by scientists who were searching for plant-based alternatives to conventional chemical compounds.
Citropol, a brand-new liquid polymer that a company is currently developing, is already creating a lot of excitement in the cosmetics sector. These different terpenes are combined to form citropols, which are liquids with different thicknesses and flow properties. These so-called liquid polymers, which are present in nature in extremely small quantities, have never been created by humans.
Deforestation
Ethically obtained palm oil is gradually rising in importance for many businesses as people are becoming more aware of the damage that industrial palm plant growing is causing to nations like Malaysia and Indonesia. For many businesses, it has been difficult to determine the source of their palm oil and whether it is actually ethical.
The use of fermentation to create a palm-free substitute for palm oil is now the subject of investigation. Inherently sustainable, extremely safe, and very controllable, it mirrors palm oil and its derivatives.
How can you make better beauty choices?
Unfortunately, it's not a foolproof strategy because it frequently calls on businesses to disclose where and how their products are created, which isn't currently mandated or regulated. Asking questions of the companies and businesses you purchase from is the finest action you can take right now.
In this murky world of "clean" beauty, we require more instruction and focus. We must pose many challenging questions about the supply chain if we are to care about sustainability, which we should. There will always be holes in the knowledge, but it doesn't mean we shouldn't ask. On how things are produced, harvested, or created in a lab, we need more candour and transparency.
There is a difference between natural, naturally derived, and synthetic, and each has advantages and disadvantages, in my opinion. Drawing a rigid boundary between what is natural and what is not is harmful. Each of those has the potential to be beneficial or detrimental depending on the situation. I believe each situation should be examined separately.
In other words, do your research and keep in mind that sometimes the best option for the environment might not be one that originates from the earth, but rather is manufactured or improved upon by scientists in a lab if you truly want to adopt a more sustainable beauty routine.
Thank you for giving this a read, babes.
Until next time.
Love,
Emma
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